Two days in Kigali: what to see in Rwanda's capital

Kigali is built across a series of green hills, and almost every street seems to open onto a new view. It's one of the cleanest and safest capitals in Africa: plastic bags are banned, street sweepers keep the pavements spotless and it's easy to get around on your own.

Many travellers treat it as a place to land and leave. That's a shame. Two unhurried days here will help you understand Rwanda before you head out to the gorillas, the savannah or the lake.

Start at the Kigali Genocide Memorial

In 1994, more than a million people were killed in the genocide against the Tutsi. The memorial in Gisozi is where over 250,000 victims are buried, and its exhibitions explain what happened and how the genocide took shape.

It's a difficult visit, and an essential one. The memorial recommends allowing at least an hour and a half. Take the audio guide and leave time afterwards to sit quietly in the gardens. Entry is free; the audio guide is paid.

Markets, fabrics and crafts

Kimironko Market, just a short ride from our apartments in Remera, is the busiest market in the city. Wander past piles of tropical fruit, sacks of beans and spices, baskets and household goods, then head to the fabric section.

This is the place for kitenge, the bright printed cloth worn all over East Africa. Pick a few metres you like and one of the tailors working at the market can quickly make it into a shirt, dress or bag.

Art, coffee and Nyamirambo

Kigali has a lively contemporary art scene. Inema Arts Center in Kacyiru is one of the best-known galleries, with work by Rwandan painters and sculptors and artists often at work on site.

Rwandan coffee is excellent, and the city is full of good cafés where you can try beans grown on hills all over the country, or buy a bag to take home.

For a different side of the city, spend an afternoon in Nyamirambo, one of Kigali's oldest and most colourful neighbourhoods. Walking tours run by the Nyamirambo Women's Center take you through the streets, past the mosques and into a hair salon, with a home-cooked lunch included.

Eating out and evenings

Try brochettes (grilled goat skewers) with fried plantain or potatoes, and isombe, cassava leaves cooked with peanuts. Many restaurants also serve a buffet lunch, a cheap and filling way to taste a little of everything.

In the evening, the Kigali Convention Centre is lit up in changing colours, and the streets of Kimihurura around it are full of bars and restaurants.